Frequently Asked Questions About Yarn and Knitting
Here you will find helpful answers about yarn requirements, yarn substitutions, gauge swatches, needle sizes and the proper care of your knitted garments. Our advice will help you choose the right yarn and successfully complete your knitting project.
The amount of yarn required depends on several factors: the size and shape of the garment, yarn weight, yardage, stitch pattern, sleeve length and your personal knitting tension. A loosely knitted sweater may require a different amount of yarn than a design with cables, textured stitches or an oversized fit.
Whenever possible, follow the yarn quantity stated in the knitting pattern and also compare the total yardage required. Weight alone is only of limited use, because, for example, 500 g of a thick yarn may contain considerably fewer metres than 500 g of a fine yarn.
Our tip: Allow a little extra yarn for larger projects, especially if you would like to lengthen the garment or make individual adjustments.
First compare the total yardage required for the original yarn with the yardage of the substitute yarn.
Example: The pattern requires 10 balls with a yardage of 120 m each. This equals a total of 1,200 m. If the new yarn has a yardage of 160 m per ball, divide 1,200 m by 160 m. The result is 7.5 balls, so you will need at least 8 balls.
Also take gauge, yarn weight and fibre composition into account. A yarn with similar yardage may still behave differently because of its fibre content or construction.
Our tip: Always round the calculated number of balls up and allow a small reserve for larger projects.
For larger projects, ordering an extra ball can be a sensible choice. The actual amount used may increase because of a different gauge, longer sleeves, a longer body, textured stitches or individual fit adjustments.
Dye lots may also vary slightly. If you need to reorder later, yarn from the same dye lot may no longer be available.
Our tip: For sweaters, cardigans and larger shawls, avoid calculating the yarn amount too tightly. An unopened spare ball can also be useful for future repairs.
When choosing a substitute yarn, compare the gauge, yardage per ball, yarn weight, fibre composition, structure, volume, elasticity and care requirements as closely as possible.
The recommended needle size provides an initial guide, but it is not enough on its own. A cotton yarn may drape very differently from merino wool even if the yardage is similar. Alpaca can stretch more under the weight of a garment, while mohair creates a lighter, fluffier surface.
Our tip: Always knit a gauge swatch with the substitute yarn before starting the actual project.
No. The same yardage does not automatically mean that two yarns can be used in the same way.
In addition to yardage, the fibre, yarn construction, volume, elasticity and surface texture all affect the result. Two yarns may both have 200 m per 50 g and still differ in thickness, fluffiness, firmness or elasticity.
Our tip: Always compare both yardage and gauge, and also consider the qualities you want the finished knitted fabric to have.
A gauge swatch is a sample piece knitted with the intended yarn, stitch pattern and needle size. It shows how many stitches and rows are produced over a certain width and height.
Knitting patterns usually state the gauge for an area of 10 × 10 cm. For a more accurate measurement, the swatch should be knitted slightly larger so that you do not have to measure directly next to the edge stitches.
Many yarns change after washing. It is therefore advisable to wash the gauge swatch according to the intended care instructions, allow it to dry and then measure it again.
The gauge determines whether the finished garment will reach the intended size. Even small differences over 10 cm can add up considerably across the full width of a sweater.
For example, if the pattern calls for 20 stitches over 10 cm but you achieve 22 stitches, the garment will be narrower than intended when worked with the same stitch count. If you have fewer stitches, it will usually be wider.
Gauge also affects yarn consumption, the firmness of the fabric and the way it drapes.
Our tip: The needle size given in a pattern is a recommendation. What matters is the needle size with which you personally achieve the stated gauge.
First compare your number of stitches over 10 cm with the gauge stated in the knitting pattern.
If you have too many stitches over 10 cm, your knitting is usually too tight. Try a larger needle size.
If you have too few stitches over 10 cm, your knitting is usually too loose. Try a smaller needle size.
After changing needle size, knit a new gauge swatch. Check not only the stitch count, but also whether you like the firmness, feel and drape of the fabric.
Our tip: Whenever possible, adjust the needle size first rather than immediately changing all the stitch counts in the pattern.
The recommended needle size is usually printed on the yarn label. It is a useful starting point, but not a fixed rule.
The right needle size also depends on your personal knitting tension, the stitch pattern, the desired firmness and the gauge stated in the pattern.
A larger needle usually creates a looser fabric with more drape. A smaller needle generally creates a denser and firmer fabric.
Our tip: For a specific project, the gauge stated in the knitting pattern takes priority over the general recommendation on the yarn label.
Everyone holds the yarn and needles a little differently. Some people knit more tightly, while others knit more loosely. Two knitters can therefore use the same yarn and needle size and still obtain different gauges.
The needle size stated in a pattern indicates which needle was used for the original design. It does not guarantee that everyone will achieve the same result with that size.
Use the needle size that allows you to achieve the required gauge while also creating a fabric that feels and looks right.
Our tip: For successful projects, make a note of the yarn, needle size and gauge you used. This will make future projects easier to plan.
Always check the care instructions on the yarn label first. Not every yarn can be washed in the same way.
For washable wool yarns, a wool cycle with a mild wool detergent is often suitable. The garment can be turned inside out or placed in a laundry bag.
For hand washing, use clean, lukewarm water. Avoid vigorous rubbing, wringing and sudden changes in temperature.
Gently reshape the garment after washing and avoid unnecessary pulling or twisting.
Our tip: Keep the yarn label until the project is complete. This ensures that the fibre content and care instructions remain available.
A wet knitted garment is considerably heavier than when dry. If it is hung up, its own weight may cause the fabric to stretch or lose its shape.
After washing, gently shape the garment and dry it flat on a suitable surface whenever possible.
Avoid direct heat, radiators and strong sunlight. Only use a tumble dryer if the care label explicitly states that tumble drying is permitted.
Our tip: Heavy sweaters and cardigans are best stored folded, even when dry, so that the shoulders and length retain their shape.
Do you still have questions about a yarn or knitting project? We will be happy to help.
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